Time to Tweak
With over 600 km
now on the Rover since the end of December it was time for a little tweaking.
Saw little point in it earlier as you don’t really know what ‘fits’ without a
bit of experience,
My first
adjustment was with the seat. The straps needed a little tightening so I stopped
mid ride and snugged them up, tipping the seat up for easy access. Did the job
but when I got back home something was different with my knees. They were
tired. Not sore just sort of ‘tired’, Next morning as I was going out I noticed
the seat pins instead of being in the 3rd lowest position, I had inadvertently
put them in the 3rd highest. Not much difference, but moving it back
to the 3rd lowest made a difference. So I took a counting
lesson…1…2…3…
I noted a little
cable stretch in the brakes so I screwed out the adjusters to even things out…
quick & easy.
The rear derailleur
seems to be working fine and looks okay, static. More difficult to adjust
without a stand and an assistant to peddle and shift while you watch the
derailleur action.
Next the chaintubes.
Seemed kind of silly to have all that bare chain up where it was wiping my pant
legs, so I moved everything as far forward as possible. This had few benefits:
- My pants stay cleaner
- The chain angle on the rear derailleur and sprocket stays straighter and shifts a little smoother. The rear top tube stays part way back so the chain doesn’t rub on the frame.
- There is less tube rub ‘noise’.
- It is simple to move the chain on the front ring from sprocket to sprocket quick and easy, simply by moving the tube with my hand and no grease.
- In fact the gear change on the front is so easy and simple I don’t think I will bother putting on the front derailleur.
- Found some good info on chaintube options on BentRider online and may try a few more tweaks later.
Handle bars
adjustment angle. I had them set at 90 degrees to the frame and thought I would
try swinging them back a bit. Did not see much difference. My arms are long and
my hands or wrist rest very comfortably on the grips. I have learned to not ‘grip’
the handlebars and it took a little learning. The benefits:
- Smoother control- less twitchy
- Body rock is not as readily transferred to the steering – less tadpoling
- Wrist and hands do not ache.
- With fingers/hands resting on grips rapidly have access to brake controls
- Only need to ‘grip’ right bar to shift gears and then only momentarily
- Easy to move one hand back against body to warm fingers
- Only use a more positive grip in intense situations, like zooming down a grade or tight maneuvers.
Still considering
the following:
- Tires: Would like to go the Big Apples to provide a bit of suspension. At low speeds and on good trails no suspension is fine, but on some trails a little give would be nice. Worry about flats but really no problem so far beyond Sliming one wheel. Will keep using and have a spare tube
- Wheels: 24” wheels would be a definite advantage as my size 14s occasionally experience a heel strike and I have my feet placed with my arch in the middle of the peddle. This pretty much precludes me from using a clipless peddle. Still looking at the costs and tire options. We’ll see how the budget holds up. Still think I would like to go with the Big Apple tires on the 24” wheels.
- A canopy for summer; A stand; Accessories mount; See what I can dream up when I get back home
A few shots:
Moved the chain tubes full forward except rear top tube that prevents chain rub on frame |
The Perfect Pig a neat little place for lunch near Seaside, Fl on 30AVideo Clip Rosemary to Seaside
|
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