A year on ICE Adventure HD

Cycle Con 2022 was quite a turning point for Bent on a Budget. I promised myself I would try every recumbent trike I could lay my hands on. My old Terra Trike Rover I had purchased back in 2015 as a starter trike had taken me on a 55,000  km adventure  over the years. I felt almost guilty abandoning it but advancing years, aches and pains, and "wants and needs" said, "Jack, it's time for an update."

The first person I recognized when I walked into Cycle Con 2022 Show Hall was Peter Stoll, The Bicycle Man. Peter had given me the original recommendation to buy a TT Rover as a "great starter trike." I thanked him for that valuable advice freely given years earlier. When I explained my goals at Dayton, Peter opined they were all great trikes and then took the opportunity to show me some of the finer points on my selections. 

"Those ICE trikes are expensive but everything they do and make is absolutely top notch." he stated. You listen to folks that give you the straight goods

I knew what I wanted in a new trike. It must be compatable with an e-assist system, suspension all round to smooth out the bumps for my aching bones, maybe a geared hub' 26" rear wheel, great seat, premium drive train components and folding for enhanced transport. My preferred models were from Catrike, Ice, Azub, and HP Velotechnik. Catrike did not attend Cycle Con 2022 so I never got to consider the Dumont. It was a tough decision amongst the others but in the end the ICE Adventure HD impressed me most, I ordered and on Nov 1, 2022 I picked up my new trike from Cora Muis at Hamilton Bike in Ontario

ICE Adventure HD, London,ON

Thames River Trail, London, ON

Configuration

With the loan of some tools and shop facilities of a nephew I spent a couple days familiarizing and setting the Adventure HD up to my requirements. I had tried to order the unit with an Enviolo stepless rear hub but ICE will only sell that with their  e-system so stayed with 2 x 11/42 

Tongsheng TSDZ2 w 52V /13.5 battery. 

I had purchased this unit the previous year and installed on the Rover when Bafang BBSO2B needed an overhaul. I stripped it off the Rover and installed on the ICE using the 42T chain ring and the 50T CR from the TSDZ2. I pulled the front derailleur and control off the ICE and put in storage for future use. To shift from the 50T to the 42T I simply lift the chain by the tube and move it to the other CR- very simple. Most of my riding is in flatter country and the 50T CR allows for better use of more of the 4-5 smaller sprockets on the rear cassette and hence better wear characteristics on the 11-42 Rear cassette.  It works extremely well and gives me an excellent gear range for my type of riding.

Accessories

-Unit was ordered  with a rear rack and a small behind the seat bag for tools.

-Zip tied an old small computer bag to side of rear rack (Rear rack top ext makes folding  difficult) 

-chain gobbler. 

-tranferred my front and rear Cygo Lights, 

-Flags CND and US (lost the ICE Flag 2nd week). 

-Burglar alarm

-Terra-Cycle Raised mirror Mounts

-Terra Cycle Battery Mount

Transport

The Hollywood Rack I used to transport Rover was retired as was Rover . Donated to a nephew. The ICE HD Adventure can be loaded in the back of my Ford Edge by folding the rear seats flat, moving the passenger seat forward, lifing the rear wheel into the rear hatch, then grasping the boom at the motor and the left front wheel and lifting in the vehicle and rolling the rear wheel up to the passenger seat. Very limited passenger space this way but quick and easy without folding. Worked well as secure locked storage. 

For longer trips or more passenger/cargo room trike folded and set flat.in rear of car. Battery/lights remove to ease  loading and prevent damage. About 5 minutes to fold & load or unload and set up

Shake down

For much of November the weather in Southern Ontario remained mild so spent the next weeks rolling around the trails near Kingsville, Leamington and London. The Adventure HD was a real pleasure. The TSDZ performed well and the trike particularly w the suspension and padded seat a delight. The SA brakes were smooth and quiet.

About Nov 20 a cold front and threat of snow had me packing up and heading for Panama City Beach, FL to meet old friends and reacquaint myself with their trail system. Made a quick trip back to Kingsville, ON  for Christmas but another blizzard had me headed back south by New Year's Eve.

Winter on the Beach

Jan thru March 2023winter at Panama City Beach weather wise was one of the nicest I experienced in the approx 20 years I've been going there. Too many people and still only a few trikes but a lot more bikes on the trails. lots of construction but winter guest numbers are still down and prices are up. Rode pretty well every bike trail logging about 5000 km before pulling up stakes and heading north. Spring was slow in arriving in Rainy River ON but it did come at last and now we are into August. Been riding hard all summer so some seasonal maintenance coming up and planning for Xenia Cycle Con in mid Sept.

See you there?

 2022  Cycle-Con - It’s in the books

It was quite a show! Although the number of cyclists riding recumbents continues to grow it is still a small percentage compared to mainstream cycling. And although there are a growing number of dealers where you can view or try out a recumbent that resource is rather thin across North America. That is why the Montgomery County Fairgrounds  in Dayton, Ohio was such a Mecca for the recumbent  enthusiasts and the just plain curious the weekend of October 7th thru 9th, just past. They came by the hundreds and were not disappointed. 

Recumbent Cycle-Con was cancelled the past two years because of the Covid-19 pandemic. There was a danger that this year’s event would also be cancelled as the  organizer and owner Charles Coyne wanted to retire. Faced with this dilemma and the likely demise of Recumbent Cycle-Con, Wiz Wheels the manufacturer of Terra Trike and Greenspeed Trikes  boldly undertook to purchase the assets of Mr Coyne’s operation with the goal of not only insuring there would be a 2022 Cycle-Con but the concept of a non-partisan Cycle-Con show would continue in future years.

 Manufacturers  from around the globe and/or their agents/distributors were there in force with an inventory of dozens upon dozens of models….all available for anyone to take for a test drive on the gravel or paved track. There was every configuration imaginable.When the doors opened to the first dealers on Friday morning a trickle quickly turned into a deluge as dealers from across the continent streamed in anxious to see, compare, and try the offerings.

After signing a waiver, you were free to approach any cycle display in the huge centre and request the opportunity to ride any cycle there. Requests were quickly granted, machines adjusted to fit you and with a few safety instructions you were sent out to the test track. It was a steady stream out one door, back in the return, and onto your next machine. On Saturday and Sunday the Cycle-Con was opened to the public. The deluge turned into a flood. It continued for a total of three days. Smiles and exhaustion were evident on the faces of exhibitors and attendees by closing on Sunday afternoon!

Many recumbent dealers have a machine or perhaps several in stock that you can book an appointment to try. At 2022 Cycle-Con there were a couple dozens exhibitors with dozens upon dozens of machines. From deltas to tadpoles, from budget to deluxe, from three wheel to two wheelers, even quad-4 wheels, rigid  frame to articulating tandems, racing tires to fat tire, all terrain, adaptive units for those with various physical limitations, suspension- none, partial and complete,  fixed to chain derailers to gearboxes to automatic shifters….. and e-assist of every sort.

If you missed it you can watch some of the many videos and reports that will be coming up on The Laidback Bike  Report. But the best way would be to check your calendar for October 2023 Cycle-Con again expected in Dayton Ohio

I’ll post some pictures and I have some interviews I did. The new trike is ordered but not yet delivered. Watch for the details

Let's Get Back to Living 

It has been two years since I lost my wife Norma, my Pearl of the Orient. We were just nicely into this dreaded pademic then and it is only now we are able to travel freely again. In spite of being reasonably careful and fully vaccinated I still managed to contract a mild case of Covid-19 last July and fortunately was not very ill and only managed to pass it on to one other that I know of. Got my 5th shot this week and hope I manage to travel this winter without another bout.

It will be different heading south without my Pearl of the Orient. We were married for 51 years, 5 months, and 7 days. Although Norma vocally insisted I was crazy getting "that stupid trike", she became it's biggest fan when she saw how it inspired me to exercise and regain a healthy life style. I still heartily enjoy pedaling my butt up and down the road.

I've been pretty silent on this blog the last couple of years but I notice a number of visitors still touch base to see if I'm still kicking.

Old Rover II must have well over 45,000 km on it by now and is still rolling along just fine. It is probably due for some maintenance and TLC but I'd rather be riding than tinkering and it's just a very reliable ride. Like the Hot Rod Lincoln, "the brakes are good and the tires are fair"

Update on E-assist

Two years ago I purchase a TSDZ-2 from Eco Cycles... great people. I was going to put it on another trike- a used Terra Trike Tour II, however before I got all the way into that project, one of the clutches in my Bafang BBSO2 B  after what has to be +25,000 km of hard use started jumping so I shuffled the TSDZ 2 onto Rover. I will overhaul the old Bafang, I think, but again tinkering vs riding... an easy decision, particularly when the logistics of getting repair parts with border restrictions was difficult and costly. Interestingly some of the cables, controls and displays were interchangeable between the two systems.

Which is best?

I don't think one is better. They are just different.

1. The batteries are the same size but the TSDZ is 52 V vs 48V for Bafang. Mounting ia different Q-TACH but either unit could run either voltage by changing settings
2. Range is about the same but generally go a bit faster (22-26 kph) with TSDZ2 as you have to keep presure on pedals to maintain power. tend to coast a little more with the Bafang. The controller software and firmware in the BBSO2B is much different than the cheap controller packages I have on a trishaw with a Bafang hub motor ( I don't like that trishaw e-assist package)
3. The TSDZ 2 has a brass reduction gear that is noticeably noisier at slow speeds in lower gears  than the BBSO2B. At higher speeds (+20 kph) road noise and "old ears" don't notice it. That noise was initially worse but dropped as the gear "seated in"
4. Have a double front  (44T and 52T) but never use the 44 as few hills here. I run 55-60 cadence w standard cranks and often run in 6th or 7th on the cassette for better wear life than on the 11 tooth 8th. Most of my miles are on the highway Around town I pooch along at maybe 15 kph. I do not have a shifter on the front chainrings as I rarely shift. It is simpler to take hold of the chain tube and lift it up or down onto the desired chainring
5. The BBSO2B seems to have more power and runs cooler than the TSDZ 2 which has the extra packing of thermal paste. It gets warm after a two hour 40 km ride on a summer daybut not "hot" per se. The Bafang never gets more than just warm.
6. The newer display that came with the TSDZ 2 is much brighter but it does not have a watt meter like the Bafang.

What Else?

Lots of things, I just haven't written about. Really looking to getting down to Recumbent Cycle Con in Dayton next weekend. Will be doing some interviews. Love to talk to anyone. I'm about ready to invest in a new trike and have my "wants & needs" list.

I need:

1. Suspension: My old arthritic neck needs some relief and maybe a head rest too. Full suspension or just rear?
2. It must fold- quick & easy Tired of hauling a trike over 1000 miles of salt and sand and worrying about the thieves.
3. It must take an e-assist system. I am happy with my TSDZ-2 and cost wise it wins hands down. That being said I like to try one of those RR systems
4. Rear big wheel to avoid deraileur in the dirt.

I want:

1. To try a rear geared hub. I don't need 15 gears. I rarely if ever use the grannies on the cassette. Whats happening with the redesigned 5 speed Sturmey-Archer. Sure like to try one
2. An enclosed trike for bad weather. Not a velomobile I cannot get in or out of and that cannot go over a railroad crossing or a pot hole
3. What's happening with fairings? Terra Cycle Wind Wrap which I have used won't quite cut it for we poor souls who cannot go south but still need to trike. This picture from Osoyus, B.C, a.k.a. Lotus Land in 2016/17 amply demostrates the problem! 

See the problem?

Looking forward to seeing you on the trails or at Dayton Recumbent Cycle Con

Still Bent

It has been a long two years since my last posts My wife Norma, was diagnosed with multiple myeloma in early 2019. Chemo therapy and isolating to protect her immune system brought remission by late 2019 and we looked forward to expanding our social circle back to normal. Then Covid 19 reared its ugly head so once more we hunkered down to wait it out. Then in mid 2020 the multiple myeloma came back with avengeance. On September 19, 2020, Norma, my Pearl of the Orient peacefully slipped away from me. It has left an awesome pothole in my life.

When I discovered recumbent trikes in late 2015 Norma was my greatest skeptic. "You're going to kill yourself on that stupid thing!" was her often repeated remark. But as she saw my enthusiasm gain, my health improve, and no more of the scrapes and road rash I suffered with my old mountain bike fade into obscurity, she became my biggest Bent on a Budget fan. 

"Maybe you should get a better carrier? How about some better lights and a neon yellow hoodie? Why don't you put your trike in the living room, so it's safe?" were offered and never a suggestion anything was too extravagant. No longer had to worry if the Budget might be Bent.

With Norma gone.... but Covid 19 still having me nailed down, my faithful old Rover II still has me wheeling up and down the road. Border closings have removed virtually all the tourist traffic from our #11 Hwy so I am pretty free to roll. Winter is now upon us, but the weather has been unseasonally mild... so far... so here I am on January 13, 2021. just back from a brilliant winter ride with the temperature up to the freezing mark, dazzling sunshine, and no wind. Rover II with it's  winter Windwrap Fairing, flashing Cygo lights, and Bafang BBSO2B e-assist is functioning beautifully. But it probably will need some neglected seasonal maintenance soon.

Tomorrow threatens a major storm with wind, freezing rain, and snow. That Arctic Vortex may come rushing in from Siberia and outdoor riding may be over for a month or two. But that's OK. The used Terra Trike Tour II I picked up in 2019 with plans to turn into a velomobile is sitting on a Sprortscrafters Roller in front of the TV. It makes a perfect seat for watching the news and peddling along. The Wahoo sensors I installed show me my cadence and speed, letting me get an hour or two of leg exercise. I tried syncing it with a  couple cycle training programs from Zwift and Rouvy but found those programs more suited to racers not old fuddy-duddies like me that are just interested in casually enjoying their ride and the scenery. Something for the winter while Covid has me tied down

But I do have other plans for the spring. I am building up another trike, Perhaps you've heard of the "Lost Recumbemt". It is a leaning trike invented and perfected by Dave Ashenbrenner some 40 years ago. Dave in retirement in Florida decided to revive his dream and is fabricating a few complete units and also frame kits for the AR3 Kazebike. Google it. I will be cannibalizing parts from my Tour II to assmble the unit.

It will be e-assist, and although the Bafang BBSO2B has served me very well, I have ordered a Tongsheng TSDZ2 Unit. This has torque rather than cadence assist and at 500watt rating is 'legal' in Canada while the BBSO2B and 750watt setting bends the rules. I had considered the TSDZ back in 2016 but at that time there were reliability and distribution concerns. So I will have some new experiences in triking.

I also have a couple of mods I made on my Rover  II now at well over 35,000km I will detail in coming posts.

How about the theme of Bent on a Budget. I have changed my outlook. 

Rememder this, "You will run out of time before you run out of money"

 

You saved my life. Thank you Rover II

As I start in to my 4th year with well over 25,000 km on Rover II it's time to say thank you to this ingenious little machine for saving my life. We all know we need to exercise, but it is so much easier and effective if it's something you thoroughly enjoy. I do!

Three years back I could not stand to ride my DF more than a few miles without terrible back and knee pains. So much so I simply wouldn't ride it much. I was overweight, diabetic, and suffered from leg cramps, mainly at night. Fortunately I took a tumble off the old DF and after much fretting and searching purchased a Rover. I knew nothing about recumbent trikes and have kept this blog to recount what I have learned.

Over the last year, nothing much new has happened with my Rover II. Maintenance and repairs have been minimal, but the enjoyment I get from spinning those pedals every day, generally for 50 km has stayed constant. The weight and blood sugar is under control, the back and knees are fine, and the leg cramps... simply gone.

I don't think I have much more to contribute to this blog that is relevant to the title bentonabudget. I've pretty much blown the budget part.... according to my wife. But I think the investment was very worthwhile, and has paid me substantial dividends. No regrets

A quick summary of the best additions I have made to the Rover as I went along.

• SPD pedals and shoes
• Cygo Hotshot Rear light
• Mirracycle Mirrors
• 24" Rear Wheel, Big Ben Tires
• 3 speed front ring (before E-assist)
• E-Assist Bafang BBS02B w 13.5ah 48v Battery

My last upgrade was adding a set of front fenders when I found two sets of 26" plastic fenders on the clearance shelf at Walmart. I put the rear pair in the oven @ 300F for 10 minutes and then using a pair of oven mitts bent them over a twenty inch wheel to reshape them to the smaller curve. I then mounted them using RAM one inch ball hardware. Works great on most any direct steer trike (see Rover forum post in TerraTrike forum). I'll post some pictures later.

So that is it. Bentonabudget probably will not have any new posts. I'll leave this blogspot up in case some momentous thing comes up, but more reasonably as a reference should someone care to look. So far this blog has been visited 5578 times. To all you who looked hope you found it worth it.

I am keeping Rover II and expect to ride it for many more years. It goes as fast and as far as I want, but I have a new project in mind... a velomobile.... of some sort. I don't need or want to go any faster, but I do need a way to be comfortable in those sub-zero Canadian winters. Florida has provided that option so far, but may not be a future option. My Windwrap faring does a decent job to just below freezing, but below 10F it simply isn't good enough.... that leaves about 4 months Dec thru March unrideable in my neck of the woods.

So what velomobile? A dedicated one? A kit? A trike conversion? How about a coroplast? Something to look forward to.

Can you stop?

With lots of kms... 15,000ish... on Rover II I have never had any trouble stopping and although I had replaced the brake pads on my Alhonga brakes last summer, they didn't really need it. I had read many posts toting how much better Avid BB7s were but had no complaints until last week when my right caliper failed. A loud 'click' and no brakes.

Off with the old disk. These 160mm Alhonga disks were still in decent condition
but were not compatible with new calipers. To work on unit I simply turned the trike on its sidepulled the wheel of the axle, flipped it over and re inserted onto axle.
While I had it off I checked the smoothness of the wheel bearings and since I could feel a bit of roughness, gently removed the bearing seals (they simply pop right back in) with a small pick, gave the bearings a few drops of synthetic 180 hd gear oil in a 100cc ink cartridge refill syringe. I keep in my tool kit. Have spare bearings as well but don't think I will need to change till next spring. The bearings on this wheel are the originals.

I removed the unit and the actuator arm was 'sticky and crunchy'. I pulled it apart as far as I could get it and prepared to order a new set of Avid BB7s. My first search on Amazon for same came up with a 'good as Avid BB7 replacement brake set' only 28 bucks delivered for both complete w new rotors.  A few dozen positive reviews and one very negative. What the heck $28 vs $135 for the genuine Avid BB7s. What could possibly go wrong.

The new AfterPartz disk rotor and caliper installed (and ready to fail) and the wheel back in place

The delivery was prompt. The contents of the box looked good. But there was no instructions and no link to same to be found. No problem I plunged on ahead. A disk brake set is a disk brake set, right? I looked at the Avid sight for BB7s and BB5s and followed along. Put on the rotor... no problem. The hardware for the caliper mount was identical to what the Alhonga used... seems standard on all disks and most kits come with two different sets of mounts depending on configuration. Mounted up, adjusted, and hooked up the cable.

Time to test, Spin the wheel, apply the brake and 'click!' The actuator arm moves forward and tension applied to the disk is lost. Spent a half day trying to figure out why. Gave up in disgust and installed the other caliper. Seemed okay, took for ride next morning after 5km, 'Click!' No pressure on disk.. Disconnected cable, fiddled with actuator arm, seemed to reset. Reconnected cable readjusted and resumed ride. After 45 km, pulling into the elevator lobby at the condo, 'Click!' No brakes.

There followed a whole series of emails with the supplier, Amazon and vendor AfterPartz. Someplace in there I gave up and ordered a set of Avid BB7s again from Amazon. They arrived promptly and I installed per their excellent series of YouTube videos ( pretty much the same procedure as used on the AfterPartz. The Avid BB7s worked flawlessly. Beautifully modulated and effective.

AfterPartz had offered several times to send me a replacement set, a discount, or a refund (No need to return the original set). I accept the refund.

Curiosity had to be satisfied. I took the AfterPartz units apart several time to see if I could determine why they failed to work. It is easy to disassembleThe following points were noted:

1. There were traces of 'tramp' material inside the body of the caliper, that was probably preventing the ridge on the inside ramp from mating firmly with the notch in the caliper body. This ridge/notch keeps the inside ramp from rotating. Rotation would cause the bearings in the actuation ramp to slip back into neutral position.
2. If the actuator arm was applied too fully without a disc inserted between the pads, it could again cause the ridge in the bottom ramp to slip out of the notch in the body causing slippage.
3. There is no lubricant inside the caliper mechanism. What does that portend to service life?
4. There are no thrust bearings in the mechanism.

The guts of the Alhonga Caliper: Complex
engineering and a bear to reassemble. I may
do that when I'm home in the spring. Sorry
about picture quality!

The Alhonga Caliper, I did manage to finally disassemble it. It is quite impressive internal engineering with a ball bearing w cage between two races for a thrust bearing. It was well lubricated and no noticeable corrosion. I suspect the failure is the surface of the cam ramps or the ball bearings that roll on them but I need a magnifying glass to examine. These peepers just aren't up to it unaided.

My new brakes are all installed, run in and with even a fresh set of cables. So I am no longer screaming warnings as other pedestrians, pets, and cyclists scatter when I approach.

Ride on!

Fall Maintenance

To work on Rover II, I suspend the rear of the bike from the garage ceiling by means of a tarp strap hooked into the carrying case on my rear rack. I then lift he front of the trike cruciform onto two adjustable jack stands. This provides a stable platform and I sit on a crate to work on the trike. Comfortable for me and it just works without having to hoist the whole weight up onto a stand. (Also tipped it over the other day to inspect the cruciform for cracks as reported in Forums. There are none that I can see.

Just about ready to head south, but wanted to do some maintenance while I still have access to all my tools. Dropped my WindWrap faring off as it might make getting Rover II up to my 19th floor condo  difficult. Really appreciated it the last month here as it was generally cool and very windy. Besides it's always very warm in Florida, Right?

King Pin Greased and
ready for insertion

Top washer before handle install

New and used bushing. Which is which?

Thought I might need to replace the steering bushings now around 12,000 km, so ordered a new set and waited for a reamer to arrive in case the new ones were too tight as reported in the forums recently. Loosing track of my  mileage. But hardly ever miss a day and then do 40-50 km

I dropped the kingpins out of the frame and tapped out the bushings with a punch and hammer one side at a time. Checked for wear visually and with my calipers. There is no indication of wear on any of the bushings. Can't see any difference between the old ones and the new set so cleaned, greased, reassembled, and adjusted. Messy but was cheap and easy. This is the 3rd time I've completed this lubing procedure.

Was really surprised there was no significant wear. Have never really had a problem with steering and quite pleased at Rover II's service

Greasing the final drive in the Bafang BBSO2 was something I had not yet done. I have not taken anything apart on it. since it was installed. The unit runs very quiet still, and I don't really push it very hard, but wanted to take a look inside. There are two sets of drive gears to service. The one on the right side has two steel gears and needs to have the grease replaced before it migrates through the central seal and contaminates to grease in the left side. The plastic gear in the left side is more difficult to open and service, and the stock grease in the right side, can deteriorate that plastic gear. Eventually I will have to service the left side but will try to leave that until next year. (Early Bafang units often were shipped lacking grease) A new adventure.

The procedure was as follows:

Remove the right crank will crank puller and sit chain off the chain ring

Remove the chain guard from the chain ring- 5 screws from back side

Remove the Chain Ring- 5 studs

Remove Plastic cover- gently: many small philips screws

Clean old grease from teeth, repack with Mobil 28 Aircraft Grease
Reassemble

Chain Ring showing a bit of wear- Replace 2018?

I checked the rest of the drive line, cleaned the chain, rear cassette and rear derailleur. The wheel bearings are all tight, and the brakes fine from servicing in Sept. The chain is showing a bit of stretch, and the chainring and cassette are a bit worn. I have a replacement cassette with me and will change it, the chain,  and the chainring if things start slipping. I've put a lot of kilowatts through the BBSO2 so it is to be expected.

Now just sort out a box of tools, bits and pieces and I'm ready to throw it on the carrier and head south. Redneck Riviera here I come!

Summer is Over

Rover II w WindWrap Faring and Seat Pad ready for Fall
Bike handlebar extensions used for accessory mounts

Summer is over, and its been a great one up here in Rainy River. A few hot days, but generally decent. I rarely took off my winter seat foam pad and with the long days I was able to get out early in the morning, so summer heat was never a problem. Turned on the a/c in the house only once. A bit of rain but generally sunny and dry. Perfect triking weather.

On my ride out today my Bell odometer turned hit the 9999.9 km mark and started flashing telling me time to reset it. I only use it as a back up and check on my Luna 750C  computer for the Bafang BBSO2. Beyond some initial learning curves it has been pretty much trouble free. I have repaired the charging port on the battery by replacing the barrel connector with an XT60 plug. No big deal. Pretty sure I am the one that screwed it up by not following directions... guilty!

Otherwise it runs perfectly. Quiet, powerful, simple, and economical. I will do some seasonal maintenance on it shortly checking the lube in the drive gears... will post details when I do it.

I still do not know the maximum battery range and still experiment with different configuration settings. It has way more power than I will ever use and have set the max current draw down to 15 amps. That would be 750 watts and I never use that level of power. Likewise the thumb throttle gets very little use. I have the max speed set at 32 kph (20 mph) which really is faster than I ever want to cruise with Rover II on the trails I travel. On decent to smooth pavement I run 20-25 kph on gravel I putter along at perhaps 12-15 kph. The great thing is the effort required of my legs changes little, up hill or down, smooth or rough, dogs or no dogs. Just up the Assist Level or drop a gear or two.

Today's ride was a decent test of range. I started out with 50.3v probably 75% charge as my standard charge is only to 80% to maximize battery life. Wind was strong and gusting out of the west at times well over 20 kph. Without e-assist for me it would have been a somewhat unpleasant ride. At times on hills and into the wind sometimes I was drawing up to 600watts on Level 5 assist and probably averaging between 120 to 160watts on Level 3 assist for the most part. Normally on this course I would run on Level 2 drawing 25-75watts. I was running in gears 5,6,& 7 for most of the distance

I finished the 43.43 km with an overall average speed of 16.1 kph and a battery level of 45.3v which my gauge says is 40%. The low battery cutoff is set at 41v. I have yet to run out of power before the end of the ride.

I use MapMyRide when I want stats on my route, but not on a regular basis. Here was today's result.

Temp 50F, Wind w 13 mph w stronger gusts

TIME
START	12:21 p.m.
ACTIVE	2:41:55
TOTAL	2:41:55

ELEVATION
GAIN	114 m
START	329 m
MAX	349 m Temp

	SPEED
AVG	16.1 k

Battery Start 50.3v =75%

Battery Finish 45.3v + 40%

I had to replace my left ProMax brake handle. Rough usage I guess, as I often turn my trike on its side to work on it and noted the lever was twisted a bit and broke at the pin. Since I have the brake shut-off switch glued onto the left brake, I had to cut the epoxy away from the Hall sensor and the magnet. Again a small chore but necessary. A pair of new handles (L & R) was less than $20 from Terra Trike and at the same time I ordered a new set of brake cables, and kingpin bushings. I will need them sometime and when I service the trike before heading south for the winter, I will check them out for wear, and change if necessary.

Earlier this summer, one of my Big Apple tires was pretty worn having run since last fall. I stuck my original tires back on to use them up and ordered a set of Big Ben FS 2.12x20 for the front and put on the Big Apple 2.12 x 24 I'd removed from the rear last winter in favour of a grip tire. I really like the improved ride I get from the Big Bens and the Big Apple. I'm only running them at about 35 psi which significantly improves ride and handling. The increased rolling resistance isn't a problem now with the e-assist.

So there we have it for now. Was looking to test those hills out in Osoyoos, B.C. this winter but decided to do the coming winter in the Redneck Riviera, P.C.B., Fl, one more time. Not much for hills there. Maybe a few sand humps down Route 30 towards Santa Rosa Beach.

Keep pedalin' and grinnin'

Summary E-Assist & Hiatus

I've been using Rover II with the Bafang BBSO2 E-Assist Kit from Luna for the past couple of months putting on well over 1000 km with many daily rides of 40KM or more. Sorry I can't give you exact distance as the Odometer on the 750C Display has a nasty habit of resetting if you hit the wrong button and there is no way to re-input the correct reading. I have solved that issue by remounting my old Bell Bike Computer as a backup. I had to mount it at the base of the steering arm as I found there was interference between sender and computer if it was mounted close or above the 750C Display.

Generally really pleased with the BBS02 Kit, but have a few issues, mostly solved.

Starting with Luna's 750C Color Display. This is a BETA unit and hope there will be a firmware update in the near future.

Luna 750C Display is very readable speed and watts except with sun glare. Mounted on a handlebar extender mounted to left handle, above brake, throttle, and Level Assist toggle. Smaller text items vibrate too much while riding for me to generally read. Two Green circle graphs glow around Speed and Power when moving- Questionable value 

1. The Clock feature is erratic, randomly deciding to change the time when the unit is shutdown. Battery installed or not seems not to matter. When operating it seems stable
2. The screen black w white text and coloured graphics is hard to read under bright/glare conditions.
3. Watt meter (which I prefer over amp) needs either finer calibration or ability to set sensitivity. I use Level 1 Assist which typically draws an average on level conditions of about 70w but it bounces/jumps up and down from 0 to 26 to 49 to 75 to 96 to 122 (approx. in those spacings). A more stable average reading would be more realistic. The Graph is even more dramatic in its movement at this level of use. At higher watt draw all seems a bit more stable but no one on e-assist is going to be running consistently at several hundred watts...unless a bear is chasing you
4. No USB outlet for cell or headlights.
5. No cadence monitor although the motor has a cadence sensor in it. Part of the PAS.
6. Inability to input Odometer readings. Trip Odometer does not reset to zero unless you start riding immediately after resetting
7. Screen scratches easily. Anti scratch shields makes reading even more difficult.
8. No clear outline of how/if firmware can be updated.
9. Many settings listed that have no apparent function/effect for the BBSXX motors.

Learned a few things about troubleshooting problems with the BBSO2. First off Luna was quick and knowledgeable assisting after I opened a 'trouble ticket'. The ticket had an auto answer immediately and a followup email addressing the issues within 24 hours during weekdays.

Luna's Forums had some of the answers I needed, but I had not looked close enough initially. Other, when diagnosed as new was quickly added to the forums.

My first problem showed up as a sudden shut down and refusal of the unit to accept a charge and not start up.

The initial problem was probably caused by me not connecting/disconnecting the battery charger properly. Each battery system/charger has very specific orders to follow and they were posted in the forum. I just did not find them in time to follow properly. The resultant connection 'sparks' had caused my battery management system (BMS) to 'trip'. 'Jump starting' the battery per the forum corrected that issue, but like many intermittent electrical problems I still had something unresolved.

Strange behaviour continued. Unexplained shutdowns, sudden surging of the unit to high watt draw without using the throttle or the pedal. I looked and looked finally noting arc burns on the cradle connection posts. Cleaned and reinserted battery. Seemed to work okay, but still unexplained shutdowns. Noted on one shutdown, unexplained bouncing of the voltage 36-51-36-40. Was stumped.

Battery connector prongs in base of cradle

Prongs had arcing marks indicating poor connection

Placed two velcro straps under cradle to hold battery tighter. Note round locking hole at right end of cradle. If battery not inserted fully into cradle, locking pin can simply deflect cradle back appearing battery locked when in reality is not.

Battery inserted after battery contact clamps  were bent (carefully  w screwdriver) to more firmly grip the cradle contact prongs. Velcro straps around battery and cradle

On Luna's suggestion carefully bent the contacts on the battery so they would grip the cradle contacts more positively. Then further used two velcro straps under the cradle and around the battery to reinforce battery/cradle contact.

That solved the issue. No problem since. Hard to believe it was that simple. I was ready to start ripping battery cases and controllers apart. Vastly relieved and very impressed by the email and forum support I received.

Been out riding pretty much every day and love the operation. Runs very smooth and quiet. Using the stock Luna program settings for now and cruise at around 22kph L1 and sometimes L2 assist. Rarely use throttle. Charging battery on lowest charger setting to 80% except once a month to 100% to allow BMS to balance cells.

 My runs are 40-50 km max and not running out of power. If going further charge to 100% just prior to run.

So that's it for Bent on a Budget for the time being. I'm taking a hiatus for the rest of the summer and will post again when I have something noteworthy.

Enjoy the ride!

Programming by the Numbers

Last post I recounted my initial foray into custom programming my Bafang BBSO2. After my comparison of the Luna Hot Rod settings that came with the drive, I tried the Penoff settings that came with the programming tool and was amazed at the difference- good, bad and indifferent. I am still baffled by what some of the numbers mean and what changes will happen, but am convinced the scope of the settings are able to radically alter the type of performance attainable with the programming tool. But you can't go about this nilly-willy. I found and opened an xls spreadsheet with a bunch of different settings. It is available from DropBox here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fcen6yukxar428y/AADzGWzsm3M6jDrP5F948rR5a/Profile%20Comparisons.xlsx?dl=0

But let's step back for a minute. My 750C has a bunch of settings as well. Different displays will be different. Some of these settings adjust the settings programmed into the motor controller, again depending what settings are in the controller.

By pushing the "Menu" button quickly twice, I access those settings and then navigate through them and set some of them. Here is are some screen shots:

They are pretty much self explanatory.

Then comes the fun part. Setting up each of the three tables that are loaded to configure the controller in the Penoff or M2.0 Programming software for the motor controller. I downloaded mine from the internet at :
https://penoff.wordpress.com/2016/01/13/e-bike-conversion-software/
You have to extract the zipped file. Includes the executable configuration tool, a help file, and some .el files which are the data files

To use the Penoff Configuration Software Tool, you connect the Communications Cable (from Luna) to the green plug coming from the BBSO2 motor to the display, Here:

Cable w green plug coming from BBSO2 to your display

Next turn on or insert your battery open the Penoff program on

your computer and click connect. I use a Windows 10 Laptop w a USB 3.0 port. It worked without a hitch. Except once my Defender did not initially 'trust' the Penoff file and I had to overide its objections.

The first chore is to click 'Read' for Each of the three pages or 'Read Flash to to see what the current settings in the BBSO2. Then click 'File" and 'Save As' naming the file and storing the current settings to you computer for reference or to reinstall at a future date.

NOW you can 'Load' the desired new .el profile into the program. I loaded the 'JPLabs Relaxed' profile from my laptop. I had created a list of several profiles- .el files- from the comparison XLS Spreadsheet I had downloaded from Dropbox. Here is what the JPLabs populated configuration tool screens looked like:

Apologize for the quality of these picts. They were cell phone shots of my computer screen. At the top of each screen are the headings: "Basic" "Pedal Assit" and "Throttle Handle". You can readily see there are a lot of numbers and the descriptions of what each one will do is not readily evident. Don't blow your eyeballs trying to make out the numbers here, suffice to say you want to use the program to "load, populate, name and then save" a proper .el file. To transfer the date to the BBSO2 you simply click 'Write' for each individual page or click 'Write Flash' to transfer all three pages. It only takes a few seconds. 

Finished? Click 'Disconnect', unplug your programming cable, replug your green cable end to your display, fire up your trike and off you go. 

Transferring an .el file into the BBSO2 is perhaps a 5 to 10 minute job.

Preparing the .el files. Lots of thinking there particularly if you are starting from scratch.

So far I have run the stock Luna HotRod, Penov Standard, and JPLabs Relaxed Settings. I have been running them over a standard course about 27 km trying to maintain the same speeds 22-24 kph. JP Labs Relaxed is best so far for my trike, roads and legs. In Level 7 Assist in 6 and 7 gear it draws 25-50 watts once I attain cruising speed over 22kph. If I drop below that speed to 21 it will boost power up as high as 550w when I am climbing a hill, but not gearing down and under the 21 kph speed.

Acceleration at this level of assist in lower gears is quite strong, but the delay in applying power from a stop to start cranking is very soft giving ample time for shifts to complete. The Penoff settings were quite abrupt in this regard.

  

So I have lots of profiles to test and as I understand what some of the more obscure settings mean and will do I look forward to continuing the adventure.

Program the Beast

Always knew the BBSO2 could be programmed to meet individual likes and different trikes...just did not know there were so many possibilities. Both the Luna  and the Endless Sphere Forum have pages and pages of posts of various combinations and the whys and wherefores. I'm probably more than a bit dyslexic and read much of it over and over again. Hopeless!

Finally decided to take the plunge. Found and loaded the Penoff program that performs the task. plugged in my programming USB cable to the Green plug coming out of the motor harness, fired up the computer and clicked the 'connect' button. Hot Dog! It worked!

Following directions I clicked 'Read Flash' and the appropriate blanks on the page  filled with new numbers. I confirmed they were the stock Luna Hot Rod settings. I saved the file to my computer in case I wanted to revert.

Then I loaded the program with the Penoff .el file I had downloaded from the internet and clicked 'Write' a 'confirmed' message appeared so I clicked 'Write Flash' and in a few seconds another 'confirmed'

I clicked 'disconnect', unplugged the computer, replugged the Green wire to the computer display, returned the computer to the house and checked for any news flashes to insure my action had not triggered a diplomatic incidence or crashed the air traffic control system.

Then I returned to the bike, pointed it towards the door, turned on the power, and gripping the brake levers gingerly applied pedal power. It took off like a B.O.H. Fortunately it stopped when I stopped turning the crank... Actually it wasn't that bad.

As I explained in the previous post my goal was to program "Relaxed" parameters into the Bafang Controller. But there were those dozens of posts explaining all these settings talking about '% Decay', '% Speed', 'Angle' something. I only had the vaguest idea what some meant and no idea what others were. Plus the warning, "Not responsible if you fry your controller". So I decided to try the standard Penoff alternative... he's the guru that wrote the programming tool.

Anyway I took Rover II for a 25 km spin this evening to see how these Penoff settings changed performance. They did indeed change the performance. Some things I liked, others not so much.

The Luna Hotrodded settings I found generally put out too much power. I cruised in Level1 or 2 and ocassionally 3, Levels 4-9 were basically not used.

The Penoff settings were more like a cruise control. Setting 6 cruised at 21.7 kph with wattage output varying from 0 to +400 depending what was required to maintain that speed. In Luna settings max watt per setting was in steps of about 100w.

The cadence required with the Penoff seemed somewhat lower as well. You picked a gear that provided decent pedal resistance just over the cruising speed. If you dropped below that cruising speed a shot of power was delivered to increase you speed. The Penoff setting also tended to 'search' for the cruising speed if your gear was too low or your cadence too fast.

Also the Penoff settings forced you to change Levels if you were slowing down as the acceleration was very strong (BOH) as soon as you started pedaling. Also made smooth shifting a little trickier.

So what did I learn ...so far.

1. Loading the program from one set to another is quick and easy.
2. Determining what figures to use in a program is much more difficult
3. The response of the system to different figures is very broad, hence customizing the system to your likes or vastly different terrain conditions should be doable.
4. Feel like I'm back in kindergarten

I'll put a few picts in this post this weekend and perhaps some more thoughts. Also be looking at some other settings files i.e. JP Labs