Summary E-Assist & Hiatus

I've been using Rover II with the Bafang BBSO2 E-Assist Kit from Luna for the past couple of months putting on well over 1000 km with many daily rides of 40KM or more. Sorry I can't give you exact distance as the Odometer on the 750C Display has a nasty habit of resetting if you hit the wrong button and there is no way to re-input the correct reading. I have solved that issue by remounting my old Bell Bike Computer as a backup. I had to mount it at the base of the steering arm as I found there was interference between sender and computer if it was mounted close or above the 750C Display.

Generally really pleased with the BBS02 Kit, but have a few issues, mostly solved.

Starting with Luna's 750C Color Display. This is a BETA unit and hope there will be a firmware update in the near future.

Luna 750C Display is very readable speed and watts except with sun glare. Mounted on a handlebar extender mounted to left handle, above brake, throttle, and Level Assist toggle. Smaller text items vibrate too much while riding for me to generally read. Two Green circle graphs glow around Speed and Power when moving- Questionable value 

1. The Clock feature is erratic, randomly deciding to change the time when the unit is shutdown. Battery installed or not seems not to matter. When operating it seems stable
2. The screen black w white text and coloured graphics is hard to read under bright/glare conditions.
3. Watt meter (which I prefer over amp) needs either finer calibration or ability to set sensitivity. I use Level 1 Assist which typically draws an average on level conditions of about 70w but it bounces/jumps up and down from 0 to 26 to 49 to 75 to 96 to 122 (approx. in those spacings). A more stable average reading would be more realistic. The Graph is even more dramatic in its movement at this level of use. At higher watt draw all seems a bit more stable but no one on e-assist is going to be running consistently at several hundred watts...unless a bear is chasing you
4. No USB outlet for cell or headlights.
5. No cadence monitor although the motor has a cadence sensor in it. Part of the PAS.
6. Inability to input Odometer readings. Trip Odometer does not reset to zero unless you start riding immediately after resetting
7. Screen scratches easily. Anti scratch shields makes reading even more difficult.
8. No clear outline of how/if firmware can be updated.
9. Many settings listed that have no apparent function/effect for the BBSXX motors.

Learned a few things about troubleshooting problems with the BBSO2. First off Luna was quick and knowledgeable assisting after I opened a 'trouble ticket'. The ticket had an auto answer immediately and a followup email addressing the issues within 24 hours during weekdays.

Luna's Forums had some of the answers I needed, but I had not looked close enough initially. Other, when diagnosed as new was quickly added to the forums.

My first problem showed up as a sudden shut down and refusal of the unit to accept a charge and not start up.

The initial problem was probably caused by me not connecting/disconnecting the battery charger properly. Each battery system/charger has very specific orders to follow and they were posted in the forum. I just did not find them in time to follow properly. The resultant connection 'sparks' had caused my battery management system (BMS) to 'trip'. 'Jump starting' the battery per the forum corrected that issue, but like many intermittent electrical problems I still had something unresolved.

Strange behaviour continued. Unexplained shutdowns, sudden surging of the unit to high watt draw without using the throttle or the pedal. I looked and looked finally noting arc burns on the cradle connection posts. Cleaned and reinserted battery. Seemed to work okay, but still unexplained shutdowns. Noted on one shutdown, unexplained bouncing of the voltage 36-51-36-40. Was stumped.

Battery connector prongs in base of cradle

Prongs had arcing marks indicating poor connection

Placed two velcro straps under cradle to hold battery tighter. Note round locking hole at right end of cradle. If battery not inserted fully into cradle, locking pin can simply deflect cradle back appearing battery locked when in reality is not.

Battery inserted after battery contact clamps  were bent (carefully  w screwdriver) to more firmly grip the cradle contact prongs. Velcro straps around battery and cradle

On Luna's suggestion carefully bent the contacts on the battery so they would grip the cradle contacts more positively. Then further used two velcro straps under the cradle and around the battery to reinforce battery/cradle contact.

That solved the issue. No problem since. Hard to believe it was that simple. I was ready to start ripping battery cases and controllers apart. Vastly relieved and very impressed by the email and forum support I received.

Been out riding pretty much every day and love the operation. Runs very smooth and quiet. Using the stock Luna program settings for now and cruise at around 22kph L1 and sometimes L2 assist. Rarely use throttle. Charging battery on lowest charger setting to 80% except once a month to 100% to allow BMS to balance cells.

 My runs are 40-50 km max and not running out of power. If going further charge to 100% just prior to run.

So that's it for Bent on a Budget for the time being. I'm taking a hiatus for the rest of the summer and will post again when I have something noteworthy.

Enjoy the ride!

Programming by the Numbers

Last post I recounted my initial foray into custom programming my Bafang BBSO2. After my comparison of the Luna Hot Rod settings that came with the drive, I tried the Penoff settings that came with the programming tool and was amazed at the difference- good, bad and indifferent. I am still baffled by what some of the numbers mean and what changes will happen, but am convinced the scope of the settings are able to radically alter the type of performance attainable with the programming tool. But you can't go about this nilly-willy. I found and opened an xls spreadsheet with a bunch of different settings. It is available from DropBox here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fcen6yukxar428y/AADzGWzsm3M6jDrP5F948rR5a/Profile%20Comparisons.xlsx?dl=0

But let's step back for a minute. My 750C has a bunch of settings as well. Different displays will be different. Some of these settings adjust the settings programmed into the motor controller, again depending what settings are in the controller.

By pushing the "Menu" button quickly twice, I access those settings and then navigate through them and set some of them. Here is are some screen shots:

They are pretty much self explanatory.

Then comes the fun part. Setting up each of the three tables that are loaded to configure the controller in the Penoff or M2.0 Programming software for the motor controller. I downloaded mine from the internet at :
https://penoff.wordpress.com/2016/01/13/e-bike-conversion-software/
You have to extract the zipped file. Includes the executable configuration tool, a help file, and some .el files which are the data files

To use the Penoff Configuration Software Tool, you connect the Communications Cable (from Luna) to the green plug coming from the BBSO2 motor to the display, Here:

Cable w green plug coming from BBSO2 to your display

Next turn on or insert your battery open the Penoff program on

your computer and click connect. I use a Windows 10 Laptop w a USB 3.0 port. It worked without a hitch. Except once my Defender did not initially 'trust' the Penoff file and I had to overide its objections.

The first chore is to click 'Read' for Each of the three pages or 'Read Flash to to see what the current settings in the BBSO2. Then click 'File" and 'Save As' naming the file and storing the current settings to you computer for reference or to reinstall at a future date.

NOW you can 'Load' the desired new .el profile into the program. I loaded the 'JPLabs Relaxed' profile from my laptop. I had created a list of several profiles- .el files- from the comparison XLS Spreadsheet I had downloaded from Dropbox. Here is what the JPLabs populated configuration tool screens looked like:

Apologize for the quality of these picts. They were cell phone shots of my computer screen. At the top of each screen are the headings: "Basic" "Pedal Assit" and "Throttle Handle". You can readily see there are a lot of numbers and the descriptions of what each one will do is not readily evident. Don't blow your eyeballs trying to make out the numbers here, suffice to say you want to use the program to "load, populate, name and then save" a proper .el file. To transfer the date to the BBSO2 you simply click 'Write' for each individual page or click 'Write Flash' to transfer all three pages. It only takes a few seconds. 

Finished? Click 'Disconnect', unplug your programming cable, replug your green cable end to your display, fire up your trike and off you go. 

Transferring an .el file into the BBSO2 is perhaps a 5 to 10 minute job.

Preparing the .el files. Lots of thinking there particularly if you are starting from scratch.

So far I have run the stock Luna HotRod, Penov Standard, and JPLabs Relaxed Settings. I have been running them over a standard course about 27 km trying to maintain the same speeds 22-24 kph. JP Labs Relaxed is best so far for my trike, roads and legs. In Level 7 Assist in 6 and 7 gear it draws 25-50 watts once I attain cruising speed over 22kph. If I drop below that speed to 21 it will boost power up as high as 550w when I am climbing a hill, but not gearing down and under the 21 kph speed.

Acceleration at this level of assist in lower gears is quite strong, but the delay in applying power from a stop to start cranking is very soft giving ample time for shifts to complete. The Penoff settings were quite abrupt in this regard.

  

So I have lots of profiles to test and as I understand what some of the more obscure settings mean and will do I look forward to continuing the adventure.

Program the Beast

Always knew the BBSO2 could be programmed to meet individual likes and different trikes...just did not know there were so many possibilities. Both the Luna  and the Endless Sphere Forum have pages and pages of posts of various combinations and the whys and wherefores. I'm probably more than a bit dyslexic and read much of it over and over again. Hopeless!

Finally decided to take the plunge. Found and loaded the Penoff program that performs the task. plugged in my programming USB cable to the Green plug coming out of the motor harness, fired up the computer and clicked the 'connect' button. Hot Dog! It worked!

Following directions I clicked 'Read Flash' and the appropriate blanks on the page  filled with new numbers. I confirmed they were the stock Luna Hot Rod settings. I saved the file to my computer in case I wanted to revert.

Then I loaded the program with the Penoff .el file I had downloaded from the internet and clicked 'Write' a 'confirmed' message appeared so I clicked 'Write Flash' and in a few seconds another 'confirmed'

I clicked 'disconnect', unplugged the computer, replugged the Green wire to the computer display, returned the computer to the house and checked for any news flashes to insure my action had not triggered a diplomatic incidence or crashed the air traffic control system.

Then I returned to the bike, pointed it towards the door, turned on the power, and gripping the brake levers gingerly applied pedal power. It took off like a B.O.H. Fortunately it stopped when I stopped turning the crank... Actually it wasn't that bad.

As I explained in the previous post my goal was to program "Relaxed" parameters into the Bafang Controller. But there were those dozens of posts explaining all these settings talking about '% Decay', '% Speed', 'Angle' something. I only had the vaguest idea what some meant and no idea what others were. Plus the warning, "Not responsible if you fry your controller". So I decided to try the standard Penoff alternative... he's the guru that wrote the programming tool.

Anyway I took Rover II for a 25 km spin this evening to see how these Penoff settings changed performance. They did indeed change the performance. Some things I liked, others not so much.

The Luna Hotrodded settings I found generally put out too much power. I cruised in Level1 or 2 and ocassionally 3, Levels 4-9 were basically not used.

The Penoff settings were more like a cruise control. Setting 6 cruised at 21.7 kph with wattage output varying from 0 to +400 depending what was required to maintain that speed. In Luna settings max watt per setting was in steps of about 100w.

The cadence required with the Penoff seemed somewhat lower as well. You picked a gear that provided decent pedal resistance just over the cruising speed. If you dropped below that cruising speed a shot of power was delivered to increase you speed. The Penoff setting also tended to 'search' for the cruising speed if your gear was too low or your cadence too fast.

Also the Penoff settings forced you to change Levels if you were slowing down as the acceleration was very strong (BOH) as soon as you started pedaling. Also made smooth shifting a little trickier.

So what did I learn ...so far.

1. Loading the program from one set to another is quick and easy.
2. Determining what figures to use in a program is much more difficult
3. The response of the system to different figures is very broad, hence customizing the system to your likes or vastly different terrain conditions should be doable.
4. Feel like I'm back in kindergarten

I'll put a few picts in this post this weekend and perhaps some more thoughts. Also be looking at some other settings files i.e. JP Labs